Barolo 2009,
Tom Maresca va quedar completament decebut per aquest tast del 2009, que va citar el fracàs dels enòlegs per abordar la dificultat que tenia la verema com una de les raons d'aquesta mostra 'trista'.
'Pocs anys del 2009 van justificar l'optimisme sobre la seva longevitat i la majoria dels productors van parlar del 2009 com una anyada per beure a curt termini'
La verema del 2009 de Barolo confrontarà els consumidors amb algunes dures veritats i alguns vins durs. Vaig tastar més de 200 exemples de Barolo 2009 al Nebbiolo Prima d’Alba al maig. La majoria de vins que s’ofereixen durant els cinc dies de l’esdeveniment no només no van tenir un color clàssic de Nebbiolo, sinó que gairebé no presentaven aromes ni sabors de Nebbiolo.
M’encanta Barolo i respecto i admiro molts dels seus productors per la seva dedicació i la claredat de la seva visió. Tot i així, he de dir que en aquesta anyada el rendiment de molts d’ells no simplement no va faltar, va ser trist.
Per descomptat, hi va haver excepcions: diversos productors - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, per a alguns - van resultar Barolo bastant potable. Alguns, sobretot Pio Cesare i Massolino-Vigna Rionda, fins i tot tenen confiança en el potencial d’envelliment del seu vi. Aquella opinió es feia freqüentment ressò de comerciants i compradors, que tastaven una selecció d’aquests vins una setmana abans que els periodistes i amb els productors (no cecs). Però per al meu paladar, i en opinió de molts periodistes amb qui vaig parlar, la majoria dels fabricants de Barolo semblen haver subestimat greument la dificultat d'aquesta anyada. Pocs anys del 2009 van justificar l'optimisme sobre la seva longevitat, i la majoria dels productors van parlar del 2009 com una anyada per beure a curt termini.
Giacomo Conterno, del celler Aldo Conterno de la comuna de Monforte, va ser un dels productors més francs. Va dir: ‘L’any 2009 va ser una anyada de viticultor. A finals d’agost, algunes vinyes [Nebbiolo] ja estaven gairebé madures, i algunes estaven completament immadures, gairebé 30 dies de diferència entre elles. El que vau fer al respecte va determinar quin tipus de vi vau elaborar. ”L’avaluació generalment optimista del Consorzio sobre la collita d’aquest any és molt vigilada:
'La collita del 2009 també es recordarà pel seu patró de maduració irregular ... Pel que fa a la maduració tecnològica, la collita es pot col·locar entre el 2003 i el 2007 ... Pel que fa a la maduració fenòlica ... les dades trobades en el raïm eren comparables a la del 2003 ... en aquesta anyada, els resultats no sempre es van millorar retardant la collita '.
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Escrit per Tom Maresca
Articles D'Interès
