Terroir és una d’aquestes paraules de moda que tothom adopta al món del vi, però què significa realment? I realment té efectes sobre els vins que afirmen els productors? Rupert Joy aprofundeix per esbrinar-ho
Terroir és una d’aquestes paraules de moda que tothom adopta al món del vi, però què significa realment? I realment té efectes sobre els vins que afirmen els productors? Rupert Joy aprofundeix per esbrinar-ho
mantenir-se al dia amb la por dels kardashians al desconegut
Al sud de Condrieu, al nord del Roine, hi ha la petita denominació de Château-Grillet. Les seves 3,4 hectàrees de vinya a les fortes pendents d’un amfiteatre natural produeixen petites quantitats de vi de la mateixa varietat de raïm i sòls que el seu veí molt més gran, Condrieu. Però es reconeix des del 1936 com una CA separada i es ven per molt més. La seva propietària, Isabelle Baratin-Canet, destaca que l’originalitat del vi elaborat amb sòls granítics i exposició orientada al sud ha estat reconeguda des de fa segles. Però alguns dels seus veïns es qüestionen si hi ha tal diferència entre els terroirs de Château-Grillet i Condrieu.
La idea que determinades taques de terra produeixin vins especialment bons no és nova. El filòsof John Locke, que va visitar Bordeus el 1677, va assenyalar la «particularitat del sòl» de Château Haut-Brion que el distingia dels seus veïns. Un llibre de l’abat Arnoux, publicat a Londres el 1728, atribuïa la grandesa de Montrachet a Borgonya a una franja de terra particular de la Costa d’Or.
El que és un fenomen modern és l’ús de la paraula ‘terroir’ per descriure la idea. Les seves connotacions franceses originals eren pejoratives. Fins a mitjan segle XX, un vin terroité significava un vi rústic i terrós amb, en el millor dels casos, una mena d’encant de yokel i, en el pitjor dels casos, defectes. Un vi amb un goût de terroir (sabor a terroir) era un vi elaborat de manera poc popular que tenia un sabor de raïm immadur o podrit. La idea del terroir com a atribut més positiu no va sorgir fins al naixement del sistema de corrent altern als anys trenta.
Tothom té la seva pròpia definició de terrer. Potser el més senzill sigui el de l’escriptor nord-americà de vins Matt Kramer, que el descriu com a “certesa”. La majoria de definicions franceses, inclosa la de l’INAO (l’organisme responsable del sistema de corrent altern de França), inclouen quatre elements claus: les característiques físiques d’un lloc (especialment el sòl i l’exposició), el seu clima, la varietat de raïm utilitzada i el paper que juga l’home. .
per què està el doctor Charles en cadira de rodes a Chicago?
Poques persones discutirien la premissa bàsica que els vins deriven certes característiques del lloc on es cultiva el raïm i que l’home juga un paper en l’expressió d’aquestes característiques. Però tenint en compte que pràcticament tots els productors de vi afirmen produir vins que respecten el terroir i afirmen adoptar un enfocament 'no intervencionista', el consumidor té tots els motius per preguntar-se què significa terroir a la pràctica.
ombres de blau temporada 2 episodi 2
Les arrels del terrer
Potser perquè la paraula és similar a ‘terreny’, tendim a associar el terrer principalment al sòl. Al seu torn, això pot afavorir la percepció que els vins deriven directament d’un sabor del sòl on es conreen.
Un exemple clàssic és Chablis, un dels vins més reconeguts del món. Tot i estar feta a partir d’una varietat de raïm omnipresent, l’expressió Chablis de Chardonnay és diferent a la de qualsevol altra regió. Els vins més reputats provenen de margues calcàries quimergues, suaus, compostes de closques d’ostres prehistòriques.
Els productors i redactors de vins sovint estableixen un vincle entre el característic sabor de sílex iodat del vi i la geologia de la regió. 'Com es pot explicar les notes iodades de Chablis si no és per la composició del seu sòl?', Es pregunta Bernard Billaud-Simon. 'No trobes aquest gust als Chardonnays cultivats en altres llocs'.
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Articles D'Interès
