- Suplement de Bordeus 2018
- El més destacat
- Revista: número de juliol de 2018
Vam demanar a James Lawther, editor que col·laborava des de fa temps amb Decanter, que seleccionés les seves finques preferides d’aquestes denominacions del marge dret. La seva elecció posa de manifest l’evolució de la regió des dels anys noranta ...
que juga a barretina els dies de la nostra vida
Bordeus es va convertir en la meva casa el 1996, a St-Emilion i el marge dret, a 25 minuts amb cotxe. Abandonant els turons de l’Entre-Deux-Mers, la carretera s’enfonsa i creua la Dordonya corrent cap a l’epicentre elevat de St-Emilion, l’altiplà calcari i els côtes. Avançant més, apareixen les terrasses, les pistes i els castells. És una visió encoratjadora i que no s’ha empenyorat al llarg dels anys. De la mateixa manera, la mateixa ciutat medieval, ja sigui bulliciosa des de la primavera fins a finals d’estiu o dormint a l’hivern.
A la dècada dels noranta, el marge dret va tenir una gran activitat. El 'moviment del garatge' inicial estava en ple desenvolupament, una classificació revisada per a St-Emilion el 1996 va causar un gran enrenou, i la viticultura i l'elaboració del vi van estar en el punt de mira, amb mètodes 'progressius' com la recol·lecció verda, la cobertura d'herba, collita tardana, extracció i envelliment en nous temes de roure.
Desplaceu-vos cap avall per obtenir les millors opcions de Lawther dels seus castells favorits de Pomerol i St-Emilion
Uns vint-i-vint anys després, la revolució ja no està en l'aire, els mètodes vitícoles són pràctiques habituals i els extrems més salvatges de la vinificació s'han reduït. Els vins de garatge que van sobreviure ja formen part de l’establiment, la xerrada imposada actualment per inversors rics i l’última adquisició i fusió. Inalterada és la ruralitat tranquil·la que encara conserva.
Triant els meus millors castells de St-Emilion i Pomerol, he intentat mostrar el teixit de la regió, il·lustrant l’evolució des dels anys noranta. Tant els creixements oficials (Angélus, Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Pavie) com no oficials (Lafleur, Petrus, Le Pin) s’han deixat de banda per permetre una mica més d’abast. És una opció més personal que dictada per punts.
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Vegeu les seleccions t0p de Lawther dels seus castells favorits de Pomerol i St-Emilion
Articles D'Interès
