Richebourg Grand Cru a la Côte de Nuits de Borgonya. Crèdit: Ian Shaw / Alamy
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- Exclusiu
- El més destacat
- Articles de vins de llarga lectura
El mestre de Borgonya, Clive Coates MW, us explica tot el que heu de saber sobre el Domaine Jean Grivot, juntament amb notes de tast històriques sobre vins de les millors anyades, com a part d’una sèrie que repassa els perfils del domini dels llibres més recents de Clive.
No m’agraden les mitges ampolles: mida estúpida. Ni tan sols prou per a un, i menys encara per a dos. Però, per alguna raó, a l’aguait del celler Château Coates, era propietària de la meitat del Clos de Vougeot del Domaine Grivot 1964. Finalment, el vaig obrir al final d’un sopar bulliciós. La meva amiga va dir que portaria mig got al llit amb ella. Vaig acabar el rentat i em vaig relaxar amb la resta. Estava deliciós.
Però Etienne Grivot no està d'acord. Va néixer el 1959 i mai se li va ocórrer que el seu paper a la vida no era seguir al seu pare Jean al domini familiar. Però a mesura que va créixer, bevent alguna que altra ampolla de anys com el 1929 i el 1937, i vins de les grans anyades immediatament després de la segona guerra mundial, va començar a adonar-se que els vins que el domini Grivot produïa als anys seixanta i setanta eren una ombra dels seus antics jo.
Per què? Com que estaven fertilitzant excessivament les vinyes, i com va demostrar un professor a Etienne quan feia els seus estudis a finals dels anys setanta (primer un B.T. ( Patent tècnica ) en agricultura general, i després un B.T.S. (superior) en viticultura i enologia), el sòl de Borgonya era cada vegada més incapaç de produir vins locals , vins que tenien el caràcter màgic i la concentració del sabor d’on provenen.
Trobeu aquí totes les notes de tast del Domaine Jean Grivot de Clive Coates MW
Els orígens de la família Grivot es troben a la part alta del riu Doubs, a cent quilòmetres a l'est al Jura, però Grivots s'ha establert a Borgonya des de la Revolució Francesa.
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Al principi vivien a Nuits-Saint-Georges, cultivant vinyes a Arcenats, a les Hautes-Côtes i a Corgoloin, però també cultivaven altres cultius. Una sucursal es va traslladar a Vosne-Romanée i, lentament, amb seguretat, les activitats d’aquest costat de la família es van concentrar en la producció de vi.
Gaston Grivot, fill de Joseph i pare de Jean, va vendre les seves vinyes en aquestes zones menors el 1919 per comprar una peça important de Clos Vougeot a un M. Polack. Va ser un dels primers a obtenir un títol enològic adequat a la universitat de Dijon als anys vint.
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I va tenir la previsió de casar-se amb Madelaine, filla d’Émile Grivot, de Nuits-Saint-Georges, el 1927, sense cap relació estreta, però segurament un cosí llunyà, que portava vinyes a Pruliers i Roncières com a dot.
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Consulteu les puntuacions de vins de Clive per obtenir les millors anyades
On comprar el llibre 'My Favorite Burgundies' de Clive Coates MW:
Articles D'Interès
