Paul Hobbs
El millor enòleg nord-americà Paul Hobbs es va fer fam en divorciar-se d’una de les empreses vitivinícoles més poderoses del món i ignorant els consells dels seus professors d’elaboració de vins. Li explica a Linda Murphy per què
És molt temptador anomenar Paul Hobbs al nord-americà Michel Rolland.
Com l’enòleg consultor vitivinícola de Bordeus, Hobbs té les seves pròpies marques de vins d’èxit (Paul Hobbs Wines a Califòrnia i Viña Cobos a l’Argentina) i guanya una vida important com a consultor d’unes tres dotzenes de cellers a Califòrnia, Argentina, Xile i Hongria.
Hobbs, però, cita un parell de diferències fonamentals.
'L'aproximació de Michel és més concentrada en el laboratori i la barreja, mentre que la meva és de zero', diu Hobbs un dia assolellat d'agost a la vall del riu rus de Sonoma, lloc del seu celler i 5,6 ha (hectàrea) de Lindsay Vineyard.
‘Vaig arribar a la consulta per casualitat, però per Michel era cosa seva. La consulta no era una prioritat, però em va agradar i vaig aprendre molt ».
Tot i així, va ser l’estada de deu anys de consultoria de Hobbs a l’Argentina (va començar el 1989) per a Nicolás Catena a la Bodega Catena Zapata de Mendoza, la que va fer possible la creació de Paul Hobbs Wines.
El primer treball de vinificació remunerat de Hobbs va ser al celler Robert Mondavi a Oakville, el 1978. Va treballar-hi fins al 1984 i va col·laborar en la creació de l'Opus One per als socis Mondavi i el baró Philippe de Rothschild.
El 1985, Hobbs es va traslladar al celler Simi, a la vall d’Alexander, al comtat de Sonoma, com a enòleg assistent, arribant finalment a ser vicepresident / enòleg. Va marxar el 1989 quan la seva empresa matriu, Louis Vuitton-Moët Hennessy, va veure la seva tasca de consultoria per a Catena, a prop de Bodegas Chandon de LVMH, com dormia amb l'enemic.
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