Bordeus 2010 Lafite Rothschild
Què és aquest pong? LINDA MURPHY examina el món tan maligne, incomprès però, en alguns aspectes, apreciat, de Brettanomyces.
El primer any de la meva carrera vitivinícola, vaig abocar vi a una mostra d’ampolles de primer nivell de tot el món. En un descans de l’estand, vaig recórrer la sala per tastar moltes de les altres ofertes.
Quan vaig tornar a la meva taula, l’enòleg que tenia al meu costat em va preguntar: «T’ha impressionat realment alguna cosa?» «El Châteauneuf-du-Pape del Château de Beaucastel del 1989», vaig respondre. Va riure: 'Deus estimar Brett'. Tot i que no sabia què era Brett - Brettanomyces (breh-tan-uh-MYE-veu) - en aquell moment, adorava el caràcter terrós, cuirós i fumat de la cansalada i les espècies del Beaucastel. , fruit carnós i estructura ferma.
Més endavant sabria que Brett, un llevat natural que no és perjudicial per consumir, pot fer coses bones i dolentes als aromes i als sabors del vi, seria un tema candent entre els viticultors, sense cap guanyador clar al debat.
Els vinyers l’anomenen la paraula B i, en el millor dels casos, Brettanomyces pot donar al vi el que molts creuen atributs positius que aporten complexitat i profunditat: sabors terrosos de cuir de guant, carn fumada, greix de cansalada, tabac, tòfona, clau i altres salats. espècies.
Tot i així, quan B es torna dolent, pot donar al vi una pudor ofensiva de corral, purins, guixos, gos mullat, manta de cavall suat, excrements de ratolí i antisèptic. Tement aquests últims, molts viticultors de tot el món fan tot el possible per evitar la contaminació per Brett.
D’altres n’encoraguen una mica, per aquesta unça d’interès, però han de treballar molt perquè el llevat salvatge no aclapari el caràcter varietal i el fruit. D’altres, bé, diguem que si la neteja està al costat de la divinitat, alguns enòlegs no van a l’església. Aquells que afirmen el goût de terroir per les seves embotellades desagradables només fan excuses per a pràctiques insalubres.
Amic o enemic?
Hi ha múltiples soques de - i teories sobre - Brettanomyces, i una discussió completa requereix una tesi de microbiologia. El més senzill, hi ha dos compostos que alteren el vi identificats amb Brett: el 4-etil guaiacol (4, per exemple), que contribueix amb el que es creu a molts amb cansalada i espècies i el 4-etil fenol 4-ep), amb els seus guixos negatius, gos mullat i característiques medicinals.
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Articles D'Interès
