Les àmfores espanyoles conegudes com a tinajas han pres el relleu a les barriques del celler Elisabetta Foradori, al Trentino
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Simon Woolf investiga els informes d’una contrarevolució als cellers italians ...
Hi ha un moment breu però dramàtic a la pel·lícula del 2014 de Paolo Casalis Barolo Boys: la història d’una revolució quan l’enòleg Elio Altare porta una motoserra a una imponent línia de botti (barrils tradicionals de roure) que es troba al celler de la seva família.
La seva destrucció ritual d'aquests venerables vaixells, promulgada el 1983, tenia un propòsit pràctic: fer espai per a barriques de roure francès més petites de recent compra. Però el potent simbolisme era clar: el suposadament fetut i decadent botti representava l’antic ordre. Línies de barriques perfectes i de nova cooperació van enviar un clar missatge de modernitat i estil.
Desplaceu-vos cap avall per veure la selecció de vins italians de Woolf elaborats sense roure
El que semblava d’avantguarda el 1983 s’havia convertit en de rigor per a prestigiosos cellers italians a finals dels anys noranta. Però més recentment, la decisiva carícia de barana ha caigut en desgràcia, des de Friuli al nord-est fins a Sicília al sud i tots els punts intermedis.
Els viticultors d’Itàlia canvien cada vegada més a materials i recipients alternatius per a la fermentació i l’envelliment, que van des de l’arcà fins al complet.
Allà on es trobaven les barriques, ara podrien haver-hi àmfores, qvevris georgiens, ous de formigó o grans barrils d’acàcia. Aquesta és només la molèstia cíclica de la cinta de córrer de la moda o és part d’un moviment més decisiu cap a una major autenticitat i expressió?
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Notes de tast i partitures de Woolf per a una selecció de vins italians elaborats sense roure:
Articles D'Interès
